Why Your Squash Tastes Better Than It Used To

MATT Weingarten is the lucky kind of chef who gets to spend time outside the kitchen, on the farms that supply his produce. One day this summer, Mr. Weingarten, chief culinary officer for the Northeastern fast-casual chain Dig Inn, lingered over a harvest of beautiful baby lettuces, some with ruffled leaves, others speckled with crimson and plum. One was sweet, almost succulent; another had a citrusy edge. On the spot, he dreamed up a wedge salad with at least three different varieties, the heads halved or quartered “so that they looked like little jewels” and topped with a buttermilk-herb dressing. “It’s a dish that…

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