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Why You Should Consider the House Wine

IF YOU WANT TO ANNOY a sommelier or restaurant wine director, refer to his or her private-label offering as a “house wine.” The two words together tend to evoke a low-class image of “cheap red or white wine in a carafe,” according to Tylor Field III, divisional vice president of wine and spirits at Morton’s The Steakhouse group of restaurants.

The private-label wine that Mr. Field and I were discussing was Primal Cut, a Cabernet Sauvignon produced by Raymond Vineyards in Napa Valley specifically for Morton’s. Although it’s…

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